Overview
Hakone is a small resort town in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, roughly 90 km southwest of central Tokyo in Kanagawa Prefecture. Despite a resident population of around 11,000, it receives millions of visitors annually, drawn by a rare combination of volcanic hot springs, mountain lakes, forested ridgelines, and — on clear days — unobstructed views of Mount Fuji across Lake Ashi.
The town's geography is defined by the caldera of an ancient volcano. Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) sits at its floor, while the Owakudani geothermal valley steams visibly on the rim above. This volcanic activity feeds dozens of ryokan (traditional inns) and public bathhouses with mineral-rich water, making Hakone one of Japan's most celebrated onsen destinations.
Beyond relaxation, Hakone has developed a serious arts identity. The Hakone Open-Air Museum and the Pola Museum of Art are both internationally regarded institutions set within the landscape itself. The town is also a logical base for travellers who want to experience rural, traditional Japan without straying far from Tokyo's infrastructure.
Before You Go
Visas
Japan has specific entry requirements that vary by nationality. Do not rely on general advice — check TravelerPulse's Visas section and verify current requirements with Japan's Ministry of Foreign Affairs or your nearest Japanese embassy before booking.
Hakone Free Pass
Most visitors purchase the Hakone Free Pass (Odakyu Railways), which bundles round-trip travel from Shinjuku with unlimited use of the Hakone Tozan Railway, ropeway, cable car, Lake Ashi sightseeing boats, and several local buses. It also includes discounts at many museums and attractions. Verify current pricing and coverage on the Odakyu website before travel, as options and fares are updated periodically.
What to Pack
- Comfortable walking shoes; many paths involve elevation changes
- Layers: temperatures at higher elevations (Owakudani sits above 1,000 m) can be significantly cooler than at lake level
- A small towel if you plan to use public onsen facilities (some rent towels; verify locally)
- Cash: while card acceptance has improved, smaller ryokan, food stalls, and local buses may be cash-only
Booking Ryokan in Advance
Popular ryokan fill quickly during cherry blossom season, autumn foliage, and Japanese public holidays. If your trip falls near these periods, book accommodation well ahead.
Getting There
From Tokyo
The most common approach is the Odakyu Romancecar limited-express train from Shinjuku Station to Hakone-Yumoto Station, the gateway to the Hakone area. Journey time is approximately 85 minutes; reserve seats in advance as the service is popular. Alternatively, local Odakyu trains run to Odawara, where you transfer to the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Hakone-Yumoto and beyond. Verify current timetables and fares on the Odakyu website.
Highway buses (from Shinjuku Expressway Bus Terminal and other points) also serve the area and can be economical, but travel times vary with traffic. Check operators such as Odakyu Hakone Highway Bus for current schedules.
By Car
Hakone is accessible via the Tomei Expressway and the Odawara-Atsugi Road. Note that driving within the Hakone area itself can be slow due to narrow mountain roads and heavy tourist traffic, particularly on weekends. Parking at attractions is limited; most visitors rely on public transport once in the area.
Nearest Airport
Tokyo's Haneda Airport (HND) is the most convenient international gateway, with onward rail connections into central Tokyo and then to Hakone. Narita Airport (NRT) is also feasible but involves a longer transit.
Getting Around
Hakone's internal transport network is notably well-integrated and is essentially designed around the Hakone Free Pass loop route.
- Hakone Tozan Railway: A narrow-gauge mountain railway climbing from Hakone-Yumoto through steep switchbacks to Gora. It is the slowest but most scenic surface option and runs through hydrangea-lined slopes in early summer.
- Hakone Tozan Cable Car: Connects Gora to Sounzan at the top of the ridge.
- Hakone Ropeway: An aerial gondola from Sounzan over the Owakudani geothermal valley down to Togendai on the northern shore of Lake Ashi. Sections may be closed due to volcanic activity; verify operational status before travel.
- Lake Ashi Sightseeing Boats: Operate between Togendai, Hakone-machi, and Moto-Hakone on the southern shore.
- Hakone Tozan Bus: Fills gaps in the network and connects areas not served by rail or ropeway.
The logical tourist circuit runs: Hakone-Yumoto → Gora → Sounzan → Owakudani → Lake Ashi → Hakone-machi/Moto-Hakone → back by bus. This loop can be completed in a full day but is more comfortably done over two days if you want time at museums or onsen.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Hakone spans a wider range than its small size might suggest, from internationally-known luxury ryokan to modest guesthouses and business hotels near Hakone-Yumoto.
Ryokan
Staying in a traditional ryokan is the defining Hakone experience for many visitors. Ryokan typically include tatami rooms, yukata (cotton robes) for in-property use, and kaiseki meals. Many have private or communal onsen baths fed by their own hot spring source. Standards and inclusions vary significantly; read listings carefully to understand what meals and bath access are included in quoted rates.
Hotels and Guesthouses
Western-style hotels and budget guesthouses are available, particularly around Hakone-Yumoto and Gora. These offer more flexibility for those who prefer to dine independently. Some include access to onsen facilities.
Location Considerations
Hakone-Yumoto is the most connected hub and suits those arriving late or leaving early. Gora, Miyanoshita, and Sengokuhara are quieter and better positioned for exploring the central and northern areas. The lakeside villages of Hakone-machi and Moto-Hakone are scenic but more remote from the ropeway circuit.
All accommodation should be booked in advance for weekends, public holidays, and peak foliage/blossom seasons.
Things to See & Do
Onsen
Hakone has numerous onsen fed by several distinct water sources, each with different mineral compositions. Options range from ryokan private baths (exclusive to guests) to public day-use facilities. Tennoji-no-Yu and Tenzan Tohji-kyo are among the better-known day-use bathhouses; verify opening hours and admission fees directly with each facility.
Hakone Open-Air Museum (Chokoku-no-Mori)
Located near Chokoku-no-Mori Station on the Tozan Railway, this is Japan's first open-air art museum, displaying sculpture by Rodin, Henry Moore, Picasso, and others across landscaped grounds. It also operates indoor galleries and a dedicated Picasso pavilion. Verify current admission prices and hours on the museum's official website.
Pola Museum of Art
Set in beech forest near Sengokuhara, this museum holds a substantial collection of French Impressionist paintings alongside Japanese Western-style works and decorative arts. The building itself is architecturally considered. Admission fees and hours should be confirmed on the official site.
Owakudani Geothermal Valley
A visibly active volcanic area on the ropeway route, with sulphurous vents, steaming pools, and walking paths along monitored trails. It is the source of kuro-tamago — eggs hard-boiled in the hot spring water, which turn black-shelled. Access and trail areas can be restricted based on volcanic activity levels; check local advisories before visiting.
Lake Ashi
Boat crossings across Ashinoko offer the classic Hakone composition: torii gate rising from the water and Mount Fuji framed behind it — weather and season permitting. The lakeside area around Hakone-machi includes sections of the historic Tokaido road lined with old cedar trees.
Hakone Shrine
A Shinto shrine founded in the 8th century, set among ancient cedar forest at the edge of Lake Ashi. The lakeside torii is one of Hakone's most photographed landmarks. The shrine is free to enter; the forested approach is atmospheric at any season.
Food & Drink
Hakone's food culture is shaped by its resort character and its mountain setting. Ryokan kaiseki (multi-course Japanese cuisine) is the prestige dining experience; most full-board ryokan packages include elaborately prepared seasonal meals, so many guests eat predominantly within their accommodation.
For independent dining, the main concentrations of restaurants are around Hakone-Yumoto Station and in the Sengokuhara area. Yumoto has soba and udon shops, casual Japanese restaurants, and snack vendors selling onsen-manju (steamed buns filled with red bean paste, a local specialty). Kuro-tamago from Owakudani are a singular regional snack.
Sengokuhara has a slightly broader café and restaurant scene, including some Western-style options. The Gora area has cafés near the cable car terminal. Outside of resort hotels, dining options thin out considerably in the late evening, and some restaurants close on weekdays during low season — verify hours before making plans.
Alcohol is available at restaurants and convenience stores. Sake, shochu, and Japanese whisky are widely available; Hakone does not have a distinct local alcohol tradition.
Practical Information
Money
Cash remains important in Hakone. ATMs at 7-Eleven convenience stores and Japan Post offices reliably accept international cards; verify surcharges with your bank. Many ryokan and smaller restaurants do not accept credit cards.
Connectivity
Pocket Wi-Fi devices and SIM cards can be arranged at major Japanese airports. Coverage is generally good throughout the main tourist circuit, though it may weaken on remote mountain trails.
Convenience Stores
Seven-Eleven, FamilyMart, and Lawson branches near Hakone-Yumoto and along the main roads serve as practical resources for cash, snacks, basic supplies, and late-night food.
Volcanic Activity Alerts
Owakudani and the broader Hakone caldera are monitored by the Japan Meteorological Agency. Volcanic alert levels can restrict access to the ropeway, Owakudani walking paths, and occasionally to parts of the lake. Check current alerts at jma.go.jp before and during your visit.
Emergency Numbers
- Police: 110
- Fire and Ambulance: 119
- These are Japan-wide standard numbers.
Etiquette at Onsen
Tattooing is still prohibited at many onsen facilities in Japan. Rinse thoroughly before entering communal baths. Swimwear is not worn in traditional onsen unless the facility specifically designates a swimwear section. Verify each facility's rules on arrival.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Hakone has been a destination since the Edo period (1603–1868), when it served as a barrier checkpoint on the Tokaido road connecting Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto. Travellers needed papers to pass through; the historic Hakone Sekisho checkpoint has been reconstructed near Hakone-machi and is open to visitors as a small historical site.
The onsen culture embedded in Hakone is not purely touristic — communal bathing has long been part of everyday Japanese social life, and the etiquette around it reflects broader cultural values around cleanliness, communal space, and quiet. First-time visitors to onsen should take time to understand the conventions (see Practical section) rather than treating the experience as a hotel amenity.
Ryokan hospitality (omotenashi) operates on expectations of attentiveness and form. Guests are typically greeted in the entryway, shown to their room with tea, and guided through the meal service. Tipping is not practised in Japan and is generally considered unnecessary or awkward — good service is offered as a matter of professional standard, not in expectation of gratuity.
