Overview
Varanasi — also known as Kashi or Benares — sits on the western bank of the Ganges River in eastern Uttar Pradesh and is widely regarded as one of the holiest cities in Hinduism. Pilgrims have come here for millennia to bathe in the river, perform funeral rites, and seek spiritual liberation. The city's religious life is visible at every turn, from the temple bells that ring before dawn to the flower offerings floating downstream at dusk.
The city's roughly 84 ghats — stepped stone embankments descending to the river — form the central axis of daily life. Each ghat has its own character and history. Some are busy bathing sites, others are venues for rituals, and two, Manikarnika and Harishchandra, are cremation ghats that operate around the clock. Witnessing this openness around death is part of what makes Varanasi unlike almost anywhere else on earth.
Beyond its spiritual dimensions, Varanasi is a living city with a functioning university (Banaras Hindu University, one of Asia's largest), a long tradition of classical music, and a weaving industry famous for Banarasi silk fabric. The old city's narrow lanes — known locally as galis — are dense with temples, chai stalls, workshops, and everyday commerce, making exploration on foot rewarding but occasionally disorienting.
Before You Go
Visas
Most foreign nationals require a visa to enter India. Policies, fees, and eligible nationalities change periodically. Check TravelerPulse's Visas section for a current overview and always verify requirements directly with the Indian government's official immigration portal or your nearest Indian embassy or consulate before booking.
Health
Consult a travel health professional well before departure. Hepatitis A, typhoid, and tetanus vaccinations are commonly recommended for visitors to this part of India. Water hygiene is important — drink only bottled or reliably purified water, and avoid ice of unknown origin. The Ganges water itself carries significant bacterial and pollution loads; most health authorities advise against bathing in it, though pilgrims do so regularly. Verify current health advisories with your country's official travel health authority.
What to Pack
- Lightweight, modest clothing that covers shoulders and knees (essential for temple entry)
- A warm layer for cool winter mornings by the river (November through February)
- Comfortable, easy-to-remove footwear, as shoes must be left outside temples
- Sunscreen, insect repellent, and any prescription medications in adequate supply
- A small torch or phone flashlight for navigating the old city at night
Connectivity
SIM cards from major Indian carriers are available at the airport and in the city. Foreign nationals may need to show a passport to register a local SIM. Wi-Fi is available at most mid-range and upscale hotels.
Getting There
By Air
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is located roughly 25 kilometres north of the city centre in Babatpur. It handles domestic flights from major Indian hubs including Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata, and has limited direct international connections. Verify current routes and schedules with airlines or booking platforms, as these change.
By Train
Varanasi Junction (station code: BSB) and Manduadih (now officially Banaras station, code: MUV) are the two main railway stations. Both are well connected to Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai, Agra, and other major cities by express and overnight trains. Train travel is popular and often more practical than flying for regional connections. Book well in advance through IRCTC or a registered agent, as sleeper berths fill quickly, particularly during festival seasons.
By Road
Long-distance bus services connect Varanasi to Lucknow, Allahabad (Prayagraj), and other UP cities. Journey times can be long given road conditions. Private car hire with a driver is a more comfortable option for shorter regional trips and is widely available through hotels and local operators.
Getting Around
Auto-rickshaws and Cycle Rickshaws
Three-wheeled auto-rickshaws are the most common way to cover moderate distances. Cycle rickshaws are practical in the narrower lanes near the ghats. Always agree on a fare before boarding, as meters are rarely used. Having a rough sense of distances helps avoid significant overcharging.
On Foot
The ghats and the old city are best explored on foot. The waterfront stretches several kilometres and walking the full length gives a genuine sense of the city's rhythms. Expect the lanes to be narrow, crowded, and occasionally hard to navigate — getting mildly lost is common and often leads to interesting discoveries.
Boats
Taking a rowing boat along the Ganges is one of the most recommended ways to see the ghats. Boats are available for hire at most major ghats. Early morning is particularly popular, as the light is good and activity on the water is at its highest. Negotiate rates before setting out, and verify approximately what the going rate is with your hotel.
App-Based Transport
Ola and Rapido operate in Varanasi and can be useful for trips to the train stations or airport, though coverage in the densely packed old city is limited.
Things to See & Do
The Ghats
Walking along the ghats — from Assi Ghat in the south to Raj Ghat in the north — is the essential Varanasi experience. Assi Ghat is a social hub, particularly popular with students and younger pilgrims. Dashashwamedh Ghat is the most visited and the site of the nightly Ganga Aarti. Manikarnika Ghat is one of the primary cremation sites and is active at all hours; visitors are generally welcome to observe respectfully from a distance but should follow local cues about where to stand and whether photography is appropriate.
Ganga Aarti
The evening fire ritual at Dashashwamedh Ghat takes place daily at dusk. Priests perform a choreographed ceremony with large brass lamps, incense, and chanting. Arrive early for a good vantage point — either on the ghat steps or from a hired boat on the river. The exact timing shifts with sunset throughout the year; verify locally.
Temples
- Kashi Vishwanath Temple: One of the most sacred Shiva temples in India, rebuilt in the 18th century. Non-Hindus' access has historically been restricted or limited; verify the current policy at the site before visiting.
- Durga Temple (Durga Kund): A multi-tiered temple dedicated to the goddess Durga, with a distinctive red exterior. Monkeys are a constant presence in the surrounding area.
- Tulsi Manas Temple: Built in the 20th century on the site associated with the poet Tulsidas, who composed the Ramcharitmanas here. Non-Hindu visitors are generally welcome.
Banaras Hindu University (BHU)
The campus of BHU, founded in 1916, is vast and pleasant for a walk. The Bharat Kala Bhavan museum on campus holds a significant collection of miniature paintings, sculptures, and historical artefacts. Verify opening hours and admission fees before visiting.
Sarnath
Located about 10 kilometres north of the city, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. It is a major Buddhist pilgrimage site with excavated ruins, the Dhamek Stupa, and a museum housing the Ashoka Lion Capital — the national emblem of India. It is an easy and worthwhile half-day trip from Varanasi.
Classical Music
Varanasi has a deep tradition as a centre of Hindustani classical music, associated with the Benares gharana (school). Occasional performances take place at cultural institutions and during festivals; ask at your hotel or check local listings.
Food & Drink
What to Eat
Varanasi's food culture is predominantly vegetarian, shaped by its religious character. Street food is central to the experience. Some things worth seeking out:
- Kachori-sabzi: Deep-fried bread served with a spiced potato or lentil curry, a common breakfast across the city
- Baati chokha: A baked wheat ball served with roasted mashed vegetables and lentils, a regional staple
- Chaat: Various savoury snacks — tamatar chaat (tomato-based) is a local variant found around the old city
- Lassi: Thick yoghurt-based drinks, often served in clay cups; the lassi shops near Dashashwamedh Ghat are well known
- Malaiyyo: A seasonal foam-like sweet made from milk, saffron, and rose water, available mainly in the cooler months
- Banarasi paan: Betel leaf preparations are a local tradition; a sweet meetha paan is a common way to end a meal
Dining Options
The area around Assi Ghat has a concentration of cafes and restaurants catering to long-stay visitors, backpackers, and students, with menus covering Indian and some international options. The lanes near the ghats have numerous small eateries and street stalls. Hygiene standards vary significantly; food cooked fresh and served hot is generally safer.
Alcohol
Varanasi is not a drinking city in the way that secular urban centres in India might be. Alcohol is available at licensed establishments and some hotels, but it is absent from most restaurants near the ghats and temples. Expect its availability to be limited compared to cities like Delhi or Mumbai.
Shopping
Banarasi Silk
Varanasi is famous throughout India and internationally for its handwoven silk fabric, particularly brocade saris interwoven with gold and silver thread (zari). Weaving workshops are concentrated in neighbourhoods like Madanpura, Peeli Kothi, and Lallapura. Buying directly from weavers or established cooperatives gives the best sense of the craft and pricing. Be aware that the market for imitation Banarasi fabric (using synthetic threads or power looms rather than handlooms) is widespread; certified handloom products will typically carry a government silk mark.
Other Crafts
- Wooden toys: Brightly painted toys made by local artisans are a traditional Varanasi product
- Rudraksha beads and religious items: Available throughout the old city, particularly near temples
- Brassware: Decorative and ritual brass objects are produced locally
Where to Shop
Godowlia and Vishwanath Gali are the main commercial areas near the ghats, with shops selling textiles, jewellery, and religious goods. Bargaining is standard in market settings; fixed-price shops exist but are less common. The main post office and some government emporiums sell handicrafts at fixed prices, which can be a useful reference point.
Practical Information
Money
ATMs are available throughout the city, including near the main ghats and railway stations, though the old city's narrower lanes have fewer machines. Carry some cash for small purchases, auto-rickshaws, boat hire, and temple donations, as card payment is not universally accepted.
Emergency Contacts
Dial 112 for the national emergency services number in India, which covers police, fire, and ambulance. The Tourist Police in Varanasi operate from a booth near the ghats; verify their current location locally. Keep a note of your country's consulate or embassy contact details.
Medical
Several private hospitals and clinics operate in the city. Sir Sunderlal Hospital at BHU is a major public facility. For non-urgent issues, pharmacies are widespread and pharmacists can advise on common ailments. Travel insurance that includes medical evacuation is strongly recommended.
Electricity
India uses 230V AC, 50Hz. The most common plug types are the round two-pin and round three-pin (Type C and Type D). Carry a universal adapter if your devices use a different standard. Power cuts can occur, particularly during summer; better hotels typically have backup generators.
Connectivity and Useful Apps
- IRCTC Rail Connect: For train bookings and PNR status
- Ola / Rapido: For auto and cab booking
- Google Maps: Generally reliable for navigation, though the old city's lanes are sometimes mapped inaccurately
Safety
Varanasi is visited by very large numbers of pilgrims and tourists each year without serious incident. That said, standard urban precautions apply. Petty theft — pickpocketing in crowded ghats and markets — does occur. Keep valuables secured and avoid displaying expensive cameras or jewellery unnecessarily.
Scams targeting tourists are a persistent issue, particularly near major temples and the train stations. Common approaches include false offers of help, inflated prices presented as fixed, bogus 'closed for renovation' claims designed to redirect you to a shop, and demands for payment after unsolicited assistance. Being aware of these patterns reduces their effectiveness.
Solo women travellers should be aware that Varanasi, like many crowded Indian cities, can involve unwanted attention. Sticking to well-trafficked areas after dark, dressing conservatively, and having transport pre-arranged for late-night returns to accommodation is advisable. The early-morning ghat walk is generally considered safe and is popular with visitors of all backgrounds.
Check your government's current travel advisory for India before and during your trip, as conditions can change.
Local Culture & Etiquette
Religious Etiquette
Varanasi is an intensely religious city and visitors should approach it with corresponding sensitivity. Dress modestly, especially near temples and ghats — shoulders and knees should be covered. Remove footwear before entering temples and many private homes. Photography near cremation sites is a sensitive matter; ask before pointing a camera, respect any request not to photograph, and in general treat these areas as places of active mourning rather than tourist attractions.
Festivals
The city's festival calendar is dense. Dev Deepawali, held on the full moon of the Hindu month of Kartik (typically November), sees hundreds of thousands of lamps lit along the ghats and is one of the most visually striking events in the city. Mahashivratri draws enormous crowds of Shiva devotees in February or March. During major festivals, the city becomes extremely crowded and accommodation books up far in advance.
Social Norms
Public displays of affection are uncommon and can attract unwanted attention. Unsolicited guiding, offers to accompany visitors to shops, and persistent touts are a persistent feature of heavily visited areas; a polite but firm refusal is the standard approach. Be cautious of individuals who present themselves as priests and offer to perform rituals, then demand substantial payment.
The River
For Hindu pilgrims the Ganges is sacred, and this context should shape how visitors engage with it. Avoid any behaviour that would be seen as disrespectful to religious practice or to those performing rituals.
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